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重庆的热辣滚烫:火锅“包场”年夜饭

送交者: 东海独钓叟[♂★★★★风清云淡★★★★♂] 于 2024-02-11 0:42 已读 2795 次 2赞  

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2024-02-11 10:41 

哈尔滨爆火之后,为家乡“申请出战”的热潮一波又一波。


冻梨切片卷花,带火了寒冷的冬天。借势“小砂糖橘”,广西炫技揽客。花式“整活”与双向奔赴,是一份乡愁亦是中国经济向上的一个缩影。


当亿万中国人踏上回家旅程,升腾的是浓浓烟火气。热闹回归,“年味消费”成了这个春节的主角。新京报贝壳财经记者走进小镇,记录舌尖上的家乡味道,寻找“热”起来的小城故事。



火锅,重庆这座8D魔幻城市的一个名片。新京报贝壳财经记者 覃澈 摄


夜幕降临,华灯初上。重庆一家火锅店随着人流的涌入变得热闹起来。店里不时传出阵阵麻辣香气,以及客人下单声、聊天声,与沸腾红汤里的翻滚声交织在一起,勾勒出浓郁的人间烟火气。


火锅,重庆这座8D魔幻城市的一个名片。每逢过年,无论是异地归来的重庆人,还是慕名而来的外地游客,到山城必然会选择火锅。只有当麻辣鲜香在口中弥散开来时,才算真正地感受到这座城市的热辣滚烫。


火锅不仅是外地人对重庆的第一印象,也是感受川渝文化的第一环节。


“要在重庆找一家火锅店太容易了,随便哪条街都有五六家火锅店。”在重庆旅游的浙江女孩张悦告诉新京报贝壳财经记者,“只需要看店门口排队的人数,就能判断出味道如何。”


这个重庆饮食品牌最响亮的骄傲,正创造着庞大产业。而在网红经济爆发的当下,重庆火锅也没有局限于传统,而是主动求变。新一代火锅品牌创业者们在前辈的基础上,研发了更多元化的味道,还搭乘“品牌+”东风,通过直营、加盟等方式让火锅以重庆为大本营渗透到更多城市。


如今,重庆火锅在春节挺进年夜饭,更计划着走出国门,让山城的地道风味飘远。



火锅作为重庆独特的城市文化符号之一,也是最为地道的地方特色美食。新京报贝壳财经记者 覃澈 摄


火锅开“卷”年夜饭


重庆人到底有多爱吃火锅?弥漫在这个充满码头文化气息的山城上空,那股略带麻辣味的空气足以说明一切。


“兄弟们,晚上6点老火锅走起!”2月7日,在上海工作的罗海挂断订座电话后,激动地在聊天群发出邀请。


每逢春节临近,罗海都会组织身边几个哥们好好聚上一次。在排除了江湖菜、烤鱼以及毛血旺等选项后,最终汇成一个答案:火锅!


贝壳财经记者走访看到,重庆多家火锅店门口络绎不绝,店家纷纷贴出“春节不打烊”的通知。如今,不少家庭、好友更是将年夜饭选择在了火锅店。



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“以往年夜饭以中餐为主,但几乎每年都是那几样菜,早已有些‘审美疲劳’。另外中餐菜品随着时间推移也会逐渐变凉,不便于长时间聊天聚会。”考虑再三后,罗海索性将火锅选作年夜饭,“不但可以选择自己喜欢的菜品以及随时加菜,更不用因为菜品温度而影响聚会时长。”


多位消费者在接受贝壳财经记者采访时表示,相比其他品类,火锅的社交属性更适合亲友相聚。尤其对于众多特意来重庆旅游过年的外地游客而言,火锅更是年夜饭的首选。


“今年全家人来重庆旅游,肯定得打卡火锅店。”正在山城旅游的浙江女孩张悦说,“毕竟作为重庆餐饮最出名的名片,吃火锅也算是体验到当地文化。”


受顾客需求驱使,重庆越来越多火锅店主就年夜饭做起了准备。


“往年腊月二十九就歇业了,直到初四再营业。但今年不但没法休息,甚至大年三十中午和晚上都格外忙碌。”在重庆经营着一家火锅店的林勇告诉贝壳财经记者,早在半个月前就接到顾客打来的订座电话,这让他调整了门店作息时间。


火锅店老板李方同样忙碌,门店大年三十晚上的餐位全部订满,“基本以来重庆过年的外地游客为主。现在特意追加了热销菜品的备货量,以免到时候售罄让客人感到遗憾。”

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林勇告诉贝壳财经记者,门店针对不同客户群推出299元、399元的荤素套餐,同时为了烘托过年氛围,还在大堂四周贴满了“福”“春联”等应景的装饰。此外,还提前准备好了糖果、瓜子等小食。“不但门口安排工作人员发放糖果,还会在凌晨安排倒计时来迎接新年。”


“通常选择年夜饭的顾客都会在店里待到凌晨一两点。我们特意准备好了汤圆、饺子等食品,以及抽奖等环节来增添新年氛围。我们还和火锅店旁边的茶馆达成了合作,客人吃完饭后还能去茶馆喝茶打牌,以庆祝新年的到来。”


跨城过节的买卖:外地人打卡,老板中午接单


火锅作为重庆独特的城市文化符号之一,也是最为地道的地方特色美食。吸引着本地人和外地游客的光顾,也逐渐带动重庆家乡经济爆发。


“每次来重庆都会打卡火锅店。”正在山城旅游的浙江女孩张悦表示,“即使被火锅辣得不行,但第二天仍忍不住去吃。而且每家店都有自己独到的菜品和味道,怎么换着吃都不会腻。”

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下午5点,林勇在重庆所经营的火锅店逐渐热闹起来。厨师忙碌地将牛肉、毛肚切片摆盘,服务员则将一份份菜品送到等待已久的顾客桌上。林勇不断穿梭在店里,不时和老顾客打着招呼,并热情地递上花生瓜子等免费小食。


开火锅店的初衷很简单,“从小父亲带我去吃火锅时就迷上这种接地气的场景,大家无拘无束享受美食的感觉让人觉得很安逸,当时就梦想着能拥有一家属于自己的火锅店。”


正式入行前,林勇拉着朋友跑遍了城市每家知名的火锅店,逐一记录下对方的菜品和口感,还买回花椒、八角、牛油等食材在家反复炒制火锅底料。


多次尝试后的底料,终于赢得身边朋友的一致肯定,信心十足的林勇很快砸下20万元,租了一家约有100平方米的临街房,一番装修后便正式开起了火锅店。


作为一个资深的火锅“老饕”,林勇深知顾客在选择火锅店时,除了要求底料地道,食材也必须“分量足”和“菜品新鲜”。


他每天一大早就前往市场挑选新鲜蔬菜,牛肉、鸭肠等肉食也同样交给自己最信任的供货方,同时在摆盘时也要求店员“多装点”。“毕竟火锅店靠的是薄利多销和口碑。口碑好了自然翻台率和回头客就多了。”林勇说。

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很快,这个摆放着10多张桌子的小店每天爆满,“从没担心过生意好不好。唯一郁闷的就是店铺面积太小,没办法多放下几张桌子。”


得益于网红城市的打造和春节假期,重庆火锅生意迎来井喷,大批像林勇这般的火锅店老板接待起返乡的本地人,以及慕名而来的外地游客。


入行已有9年时间的李方正操着蹩脚的普通话招呼着客人。最近店里来了不少外地客人,部分人甚至中午前来就餐,这让他不得不更改营业时间。


“本地人很少有中午吃火锅的习惯。毕竟味道大,会影响下午工作或玩耍的环境。”李方告诉贝壳财经记者,如今店里每天都会接待数十拨客人,其中大部分都是外地客人。为了让对方品尝到正宗的重庆火锅,除了延长营业时间,还特意将每道菜烫熟的时间详细地罗列出来并逐一告知,“毕竟对方喜欢火锅也就意味着认可重庆的饮食和这个城市。”


每天上午10点,李方来到店里安排师傅炒料,并逐一检查当天菜品是否齐全,最后再仔细地将摆放在店里的桌凳擦拭干净,静待第一批客人上门。


顾客们接踵而至,刚进店就高喊“老板,中辣”或“安排个通风的位置,4个人”。而李方则笑着递上菜单,并在客人吃饭时主动提着一瓶啤酒和对方聊聊天,一时兴起还不忘送对方一两道菜,“重庆火锅讲究的就是热闹,大家熟悉了也就是朋友了。”

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李方算过一笔账:受春节假期利好,门店上个月流水已达到15万元。除去房租、人力、水电费以及进货食材费,赚了四五万元。


夜里11点多,总算清闲下来的李方也会开上一桌,约上三五朋友在店里吃吃喝喝,“喝上几瓶啤酒,吃顿火锅才算是开启了重庆的夜生活。”


“火锅+”破圈,下一步出海去!


重庆人对火锅的喜爱深入骨髓。任何季节任何场合都阻挡不了这股热情。天气寒冷?吃点火锅御寒;天气炎热?冰啤酒搭配火锅;一个人在家?同样可以点上一份火锅外卖,边刷剧边品尝。


几乎每个夜里,城市里大大小小的火锅店都挤满了或身着光鲜的时尚青年,或穿搭随意的寻常居民。人们围坐在热气腾腾的火锅边欢笑畅谈,看着锅里的食材在眼前不断翻滚,勾勒出最朴实的人间烟火。


事实上,很少有人能说出重庆究竟有多少家火锅店。据重庆大学此前发布的数据,重庆火锅店遍布街头巷尾,内环以内区域的密度达到21.7家/平方公里,相当于每200米就有一家。


同样据重庆官方数据,如果把火锅全产业链产值加以估算,包括最上游的原料生产基地、中游的火锅调味料及底料制品、下游的火锅门店和新兴方便火锅,重庆火锅全产业链仅是在2022年收入就超过4000亿元。其中,火锅营业收入600多亿元,从业人员更是近百万人。


“8D魔幻城市”属性的持续爆发,吸引无数外地游客在春节期间涌入重庆,也推动着重庆火锅悄然发生着变化。


“曾经无论火锅店老板还是顾客,首选的是味道,对于环境和服务不太在意。”一位业内人士告诉贝壳财经记者,早前重庆火锅店大多装修极为简单,店里摆上几张木桌和条凳就能营业。尽管凭借味道能吸引到大批食客,但随着网红流量时代的到来,店家们逐渐发现不光要满足食客味蕾,更需要通过“火锅+”的模式来丰富顾客就餐时的体验感。


“现在光是味道已满足不了客户,必须得考虑到年轻人喜欢打卡的习惯,只有精美的场景才能激发他们拍照的兴趣。而在朋友圈晒图后,也会形成口碑传播吸引更多的顾客。”李方如是说。


李方早前同样被客人吐槽过“味道安逸,但环境‘脏乱差’”,这让他不得不决定对店面重新装修。


很快,李方将火锅店装修成高中教室的模样,墙上挂着“好好学习”以及“高考倒计时”等海报,让每位客人有种回到了高中时代,几个哥们躲着老师和家长私下聚会的感觉。


贝壳财经记者注意到,对于食客而言,很容易因为绝大多数火锅味道相似而出现“味觉疲劳”,要在同质化的困境中突围,需要在“火锅+”下功夫,进而形成独有的竞争力。

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以当地“萍姐”火锅店为例,推出“火锅+美食街”模式,除了在店里提供火锅、烤肉等饮食,还推出各种特色小吃供各地食客享用。而频频出现在媒体报道中的南山火锅一条街,“巴倒烫”“鲜龙井”等品牌更是依山而建,让食客在吃火锅时也能欣赏到重庆夜景。


林勇也对品牌做出重新规划,在他看来,此前那种仅凭借顾客口口相传的“粗犷式”宣传已经落伍,必须借助更多营销手段让火锅店与食客产生强链接。


为此,他特意在店里架起手机开直播,每天通过镜头向网友直播后厨炒料、备菜等场景以及店里顾客喝酒吃饭的热闹场面。


“相比传统广告,直播能更直接地展示门店真实情况,消费者在看到菜品、现场顾客实时反馈后会增加信任度。”自从开启直播后,林勇发现每天平均在线人数都能达到数百人,不少人“云咨询”门店地址以及相关福利活动,“在提升品牌知名度时,也给门店带来不小客流。”


事实上,不甘于偏居山城的重庆火锅品牌,正努力打进全国乃至全球市场。


公开资料显示,火锅品牌“珮姐”早在2021年就与重庆三峡博物馆合作推出火锅底料礼盒。小天鹅创始人何永智、刘一手创始人刘梅等资深从业者则开起直播,通过这种方式让品牌被更多人了解。


一番努力下,如今包括“朱光玉”“珮姐”在内的重庆火锅品牌,不但被全国食客所知晓,更是在上海、深圳等地开店,并借此向其他城市继续渗透。前瞻网数据显示,目前重庆火锅全国门店已经突破150000家。


而在2023年6月重庆食品及农产品加工高质量发展产业生态大会新闻发布会上,重庆市政府工作人员坦言,希望通过打造大火锅食材产业、做优火锅产业经营主体等方式助力重庆火锅走出国门。


“尽管会面临原材料供应链、本地化等难题,但相信未来重庆火锅必然会出现在全球多个国家和地区,让更多的人了解重庆火锅的烟火魅力,进而喜欢上重庆。”李方说。

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